More Cover

So after the previous buildings, I decided scale was still key and ordered some MDF buildings from TT Combat. Some of these look pretty amazing in 28mm scale once painted up so I wanted to see what the epic scale offerings delivered.

Adnet Apartments Building

I tried the Adnet Apartments and Meller Heights buildings. Built up both are big, centrepiece type buildings. The scale for both isn’t really right for Adeptus Titanicus in my view, the windows are too big, most notably on the Meller building, you can kind of imagine the Adnet as the right scale. Neither is particularly dark or gothic either.

Meller Heights Building

So time for some mods. I decided first to board up the windows and then to start adding some embellishments.

Mixture of bits, doing all the windows was a faff.

Bit of mixing with 28mm scale worked okay I think.

Less work needed on this, but the roof definitely needed some more detail.

Then it was time for some paint…

Built but no City

So in complete contrast to pretty much any other occasion ever, I followed the instructions and built all the buildings from the Sector Imperialis kit that comes with the Grand Master Edition.

The downside to the is that they don’t give you a lot of height, so other than hiding knights you are not getting a lot of cover. The table top footprint is however not too bad.

So the eagle eyed amongst you will have noticed that there are some non-standard buildings in the mix which is true. I’ve been spending a fair bit of time looking at what scenery you can get for 6, 8 & 10mm scale.

This includes this acrylic cut and etched Genatorium building from Honey Bee Works. I thought that it will add a bit of variety and a focal point for an industrial zone.

In fairness quite a bit of work to build, but a well thought out design that comes together nicely once complete. It is not that rich I’m fine detail so you might want to think about adding some detailing before paint.

I also bought these nicely detailed resin buildings which are imported from Wasteland Game Studio in the USA. I like the stackability of these to give some line-of-sight blocking terrain for the Warlords. You can get them from Vanguard Miniatures.

I ended up modding both, but they work well alongside the new GW buildings:

I’d definitely consider getting some more of these.

Grand Master Edition

As a player of the original 30 years ago it seems only fitting to own the Grand Master Edition of Games Workshops re-release.

The new Adeptus Titanicus tips a hat to the classic but puts all the war machines on Steroids leaning on the Forgeworld reinterpretations. Lots of building to put together 6 knights, 2 warlords and a load of buildings…

Corvus: Work in Progress

Having cleaned up one of the Corvus Pattern troops I set about working out what was necessary to scale a model up to be comparable to the newer models. The body is about the same but the legs are shorter so I decided that that making the feet bigger by adding soles using correlated plasticard (~2mm) and adding a little to the waist (~1mm) seemed to do the trick. In the case below I also modded the leg positions from the crouched forms out of the early legs had.

Arms on these early figures used a form of ball and socket type join and to fit more modern arms the body needs the ball joints chopping off the problem with this can be that the arms are too close together to grip a modern bolder so make sure you’ve tried that before gluing them on. Mine needed pinning and some green stuff.

Stripping down

I’ve posted photos of this old Devastator squad before. I’d been reading recently about different methods for stripping paint off figures. In scent months I’ve used some rather nasty Nitromors type chemicals to clean back metal figures, but knew that this generally destroyed plastic so wasn’t an option. As I have a lot of my old figures and some inherited that need more a back to bare plastic or metal strip down I thought I’d try it out. The squad below was the target.

The chemical weapon of choice comes from POR a firm that made their name in the automotive restoration industry, and fittingly used to be known as Marine Clean. There was a rebrand a couple of years ago and it’s now rather more anonymously known as clearer degreaser.

It’s not the sort of stuff you want to br breathing in when in aerosol form (plant spray bottle applicator) or handling for prolonged periods with no gloves. So get a box of blue nitrile gloves of the Bay of E to keep your mitts protected.

I found an old plastic container from a Chinese or Indian takeaway (the deeper ones are best). Then put about an inch of degreaser in and then dunked all the figures in making sure they were all submerged. They where then left for 24 hours after which I agitated the paint on the plastic with a long stiff bristled nylon brush. A lot of the paint was starting to come off by this point, but in some cases a further 12 hrs was needed. The POR shifted all the paint, but needs washing off in clean fresh water and may require some modelling tools to get the paint out o the recesses in the figures.

Sometimes the paint comes off in big lumps and needs little extra effort. There was no visible sign of damage to any of the figure components from the chemical bath. I gave everything a final wash in some mild soapy water in the same way you would clean off mould release agent from the resin models. I’m pleased with how everything turned out. Anyone else remember when plastic figures used to be creamy yellow?

The good news with the POR Cleaner Degreaser is that it is just as effective after multiple uses, so although it might look like you water pot after an epic painting session the chemical still does the business in terms of stripping off paint.